Physicians have been beaten for treating female patients. Liquor salesmen have been killed. Even barbers have faced threats for giving haircuts judged too short or too fashionable.

Religion rules the streets of this once cosmopolitan city, where women no longer dare go out uncovered.

"We can't sing in public anymore," said Hussin Nimma, a popular singer from the south. "It's ironic. We thought that with the change of the regime, people would be more open to singing, art and poetry."

Unmarked cars cruise the streets, carrying armed, plain-clothed enforcers of Islamic law. Who they are or answer to is unclear, but residents believe they are part of a battle for Basra's soul.

While eager to distance themselves from the militias, Shiite religious parties now control both the streets and the council chambers. And though Basra has not suffered the same level of bombings and assassinations as major cities to the north, the trade-off for law and order appears to be a crackdown on social practices and mores that were permissible under the secular, if repressive, regime of Saddam.

A few weeks ago, the Basra police chief acknowledged he'd lost control of his 13,000-man force to Shiite militiamen who have joined up. He was removed from his job.

The militiamen carry out political assassinations and dole out punishment for alleged religious infractions, residents say.

The Badr militia's most important job is setting an example of virtuous conduct, said Furat Sharza, a representative of SCIRI.

"Badr people can educate others," Sharza said. "The role of Badr in Basra — whether in security or other area — is big, vital."